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Dr Ruth Pfau is a missionary who works with leprosy patients. Zia Mutaher writes about her work in Karachi and how she inspired others to join the great cause of eradicating this scourge.

She came back to McLeod Road with a new zeal and reorganized the work. Proper registration, histories and examinations were initiated and simple laboratory tests were started. Abdul Rehman an under-treatment leprosy patient with deformed hands, was trained in the use of the microscope. He was a teacher by profession and the only one in the colony, who had refused to beg. Dr Iqbal Yad, the specialist at the TB Centre, was kind enough to grant Abdul Rehman admission in the laboratory technician's course, in spite of threats by other candidates of boycotting the course, if a leprosy afflicted person was allowed to sit in. Abdul Rehman completed the six months' course with flying colours and resumed his work at the dispensary, with the microscope perched on his knees as there was no space for a separate table.

In those days, doctors just refused to entertain a leprosy case in their clinics or hospitals. When Mazhar Hussain developed a foot gangrene, the orthopaedic surgeon at the Jinnah Hospital agreed to do the surgery, but he could only operate upon a leprosy patient in the hospital's mortuary. When Mazhar Hussain developed a postoperative tetanus, Ruth was in tears. She ran from one hospital to another to acquire help and at last reached the unit at the Civil Hospital. The assistant doctor admitted Mazhar in the verandah, at the backside. The patient improved but the young doctor got an explanation call from the superintendent. In his reply Dr Jaffer Ali Hashmi stated, 'Sir, would you have liked, if I would have refused admission to the patient brought by this foreign lady herself, when she was aware that according to the law of the country, it was her patient's right.' This saved him a termination of his services but he was immediately transferred to the Municipality's leprosarium at far away Manghopir.

Unlike other doctors who had previously refused to go there, Dr Hashmi took to the job in good cheer and requested Dr Ruth to help him in organizing the dilapidated structure. Twice a week visits were arranged between McLeod Road and Manghopir and this helped in re-establishing the institution. Dr Hashmi proved himself to be an able administrator.

Dr M. H. Rizvi the ophthalmologist at the Spencer's Eye Hospital, was also one of the few doctors who wouldn't refuse admitting a leprosy patient to his hospital. He would be amazed to see Ruth accompanying the patients in a bus, then on foot from Lea Market to the eye hospital. All to save them from losing their sight.

It was this dedication that drew Dr Zarina Fazalbhoy to McLeod Road in 1962. As the dainty dermatologist entered the dingy dispensary, Ruth ruled her out as another 'begum' from a wealthy home, who would offer a few cauldrons of cooked biryani, then hustle out. But Zarina proved her mettle. She had a flourishing private practice and initially offered to do the microscopy, then settled down to do anything and everything to help the group of young foreigners. All ladies, all from different lands, all speaking different languages, but united in their mission to serve the poor.

It was during this time that the Queen of England, Elizabeth II visited Pakistan. Along with her, came an entourage of western journalists. Passing throughKarachi's commercial thoroughfare, some stumbled into the lepers' colony. A few weeks later there was a story in Bild, a German tabloid, with the headline "...And at night the rats attack!" This sensational heading caught the eye of Hermann Kober in Wurzburg. Kober happened to be the head of the German Leprosy Relief Association. He immediately traced the address of Ruth Pfau in Karachi and wrote to her, "How is it that a German doctor works in leprosy and the German Leprosy Association does not even know about it?" In response Ruth quipped, "How is it that a German doctor working in leprosy does not even know if a German Leprosy Relief Association exists?" The courteous query from Germany was, "What is it that we can do for you?" McLeod Road sent a picture of its cardboard dispensary devoid of any equipment or trained personnel. The Wurzburg office immediately dispatched supplies and a trained nurse, Sister Elli.

* * * * *

It was Mckelvie who after a visit to Swat, mentioned the name of Sultan Mohammad to Ruth and suggested that she call him to Karachi and train him as a leprosy technician. Sultan Mohammad was a young paramedical workerin the dispensary at Pir Baba, a mountain village in Swat. The shrine at Pir Baba was known to be a safe haven for lepers from all over the north of Pakistan. Many of them trickled into Karachi, for begging. The benevolent Wali (ruler) of Swat state had built up a dispensary, surrounded by homes for these wretched leprosy sufferers. Mckelvie had already taken permission for Sultan Mohammad's training from the Wali Abdul Haq Jehanzeb.

Adventure in the air

Sultan Mohammad arrived in Karachi in 1965 to attend a six months' course for the very first batch of leprosy technicians. Ruth prepared the syllabus with the help of Zarina and both initiated the teaching of basic anatomy, physiology and leprosy, to a small group of candidates from the MALC hospital, municipality and of course Sultan Mohammad.

By the time the course ended, the first major war between India and Pakistan had started. The German embassy asked Ruth to leave Pakistan. She refused. The air raid sirens, the blackouts, the sound of explosions in Karachi brought back to her memories of her childhood experience during the Second World War. The hospital windows were immediately covered with shades, sand bags were acquired for emergency cover. As soon as the siren sounded its alarm, all patients would be carried down to the safe passage, on the ground floor. As long as the raids lasted, she stayed where her patients were.

The seventeen-day war ended with a ceasefire. Plans kept pending were brought forth. It was time to visit the North West Frontier to supervise the work started by the newly installed leprosy technician.

Mother Mary Doyle, who was now looking after the administrative affairs of the hospital, offered to chaperone. Clad in a grey coloured shalwar kameez with tiny pink flowers and a matching dupatta covering her head and shoulders, Ruth embarked on a plane for Peshawar together with Mother Doyle. Sultan Mohammad who had been informed about their arrival was nowhere to be seen at Peshawar airport. After a long wait, Mother Doyle gestured to a tonga (horse carriage) to take them to the main bazar, from where they could get a taxi for Pir Baba. Both the ladies settled into the back seat of the tonga facing the road - Ruth in her floral shalwar kameez, Mother Doyle in a knee length skirt. But as she perched up on the seat, Mother found her skirt lifting itself up above her knees. What followed was a procession of young Pathan boys riding on bicycles, their loose shirts and baggy shalwars fluttering in the air, as they shrieked with joy at the sight of Mother Doyle's rounded shins. Ruth grew pale with embarrassment, but the sixty-year-old Irish American tall and hefty in her pompous skirt, thoroughly enjoyed all the attention showered upon her on the tree-lined streets of the frontier town.

Once in the bazar as they stood looking for a taxi, they found themselves to be the only women around and again the centre of much attention. There were fierce looking men with guns hung around their shoulders. Suddenly Ruth caught a glimpse of Sultan Mohammad heading towards them. As their eyes met, he praised Allah and she thanked the Lord. Soon they were in a bus on their way to Swat.

The bus moved from the lush irrigated farmlands of the vale of Peshawar towards the formidable mountain ranges across a rugged terrain. On one side of the unpaved tract were high mountains, on the other side deep ravines. As the overcrowded bus swayed right and left on the narrow path, mother Doyle took out her rosary. Ruth frightened to death didn't believe her ears, when Sultan Mohammad proudly announced that they had reached his hometown.

The arrangements for the stay of the two foreign ladies were made in the residential quarters of the shrine. The only problem was that, there was no toilet or a place for them to take a bath. The open space above the stream was the only option. Ruth felt guilty for spoiling the beautiful environment.

Next morning they woke up to a panoramic view of the stately mountain peaks, their steep slopes lined with deodar, fir and pine trees and the sheep grazing in the meadows down below. Ruth fell into a prayerful meditation.

After a cup of hot, brewing kahwa and crisp nan, they set down to work. The village was surveyed, men, women and children were examined, medicines given and wounds dressed. When the time came to rest at the end of a long tiring day, Shamsher, the watchman, pulled his charpoy close to the entrance of the women's quarter, to guard the two foreign guests. Both Mary Doyle and Ruth were touched by Pakistan's gentle hospitality. They had already noticed during the day, how men approaching from the other side of the street had averted their looks on seeing them from afar. The courtesy of otherwise fierce looking, gun toting Pathans blended well with the clear transparent waters of the gushing streams, that flowed across their magnificent land.

After a few weeks Ruth returned to Karachi, triumphant in the knowledge that a six months' course was sound enough, to empower the local boys to take charge of their work in the field. The fact that she had openly moved in the mountain country, where a woman would not otherwise dare to venture out of the confines of her father's or husband's home, gave her a feeling of elation.

Wherever she had been - from the segregated male hujras to the deputy commissioner's office - they had given her respect. She had fallen in love with the land, which had made her feel so much at home. The air around was filled with adventure.

Back in Karachi she came across a villager from Swat. He had escaped from his village after overhearing the decision of the elders at the village jirga. The sinister patches on his skin had been seen. The fate of one with leprosy in the surrounding villages had always been death.

He was sent back to his village after a few months of successful treatment and assurance. Several years later when Ruth visited his village, she was surprised to see him as the village chief, happily married and with healthy kids. Strange are the ways of God, she had smilingly thought.

Zia Mutaher is a physician who works at the Marie Adelaide Leprosy Centre, Karachi.

This is the life story of a German doctor, Ruth Pfau. She came to Karachi in 1960 and decided to stay on to work for leprosy patients. She founded the Marie Adelaide Leprosy Centre, where she still works.

                                                                                            

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